Aaron wrote:
> Bob's input, "I would have to run a few tests myself..." said a lot to me.
> Unless one has tried the hives, how will one know how the hives work IN
THEIR OPERATION AND LOCATION!?

I have just returned from doing a three day event along with Jerry Hayes of
Dadant. Both of us spent the weekend promoting beekeeping and Jerry did a
couple excellent beekeeping seminars. Jerry was  surprised I sat through a
seminar but I found the twist Jerry put on "reasons to keep bees* excellent
and plan to use the same subject matter in a upcoming Midwestern beekeepers
program .

 I am always learning beekeeping and do not have all the answers to today's
tough beekeeping questions.

My point is Dadant had both wood and poly hives on display. I actually
recommended the poly hive to the new beekeepers. There is enough about the
poly hive that I like  that I believe I would buy the poly if I had only a
few hives. I did not see anything about the poly hive which I felt would
cause problems for the beekeeper on permanent locations and several
advantages over wood.

I do see many problems with the poly hive in the application we use and do
not believe the poly hive will ever be accepted by migratory beekeepers.

Walter Kelley asked my opinion of his hard plastic beeware years ago. I said
I would be afraid they would warp over time (yes I bought a few to try!).
Took longer than I thought but the tops and bottoms did all warp after a
long time.   Would the poly hive last a 100 years as Murray suggested
without warping? I do not know but have to wonder. Walter kelley's plastic
tops and bottoms were very ridged but still warped. Did others on the list
have the same experience as I did with the Kelley plastic equipment?

Bob