Bob asks how to make these from deeps.

Providing your boxes are just about absolutely square, this is reasonably easy and I have made almost 100.  I like to keep the entrance at the bottom, as it makes it easier to draw foundation.  So, first cut an entrance about 2" wide and 3/8" high in each end, near opposite corners.  Then fasten the bottom board.  I use 3/8" plywood cut to fit.  Drill three to six 1/8" holes in the plywood to let any moisture drain.  Concentrate the holes near the rear opposite each entrance.  There can't be too many drain holes.

Next, cut the divider.  This is the tough part as it must fit reasonably well, and you will have a heck of a time if your deeps are of slightly different measurements or are not close to being absolutely square.  Be certain the divider bottoms out and has no more than 1/8" clearance on each side.  If it makes cutting easier, there is no difficulty if the divider rises up to 1/16" above the top of the deep.

For the top, get 100 pound plastic feed bags, if available.  If not available, get the 80 pound size, and use untreated burlap if necessary.  The 100 pound bags easily fit over the top, filling all the little gaps that might otherwise let a queen move from one side to the other.  The 80 pound size needs some careful adjustment to be certain they provide the same coverage.  The bees will propolize both the plastic and the burlap bags to the top bars, but the plastic releases much more easily than the burlap.  In addition, some bees will chew through the burlap, but I've never had them chew through the plastic.  Put the migratory cover over the bag, and a stone/brick on top.

If you encounter hot weather, and the bees have been in the nucs at least 10 days, just set a corner of the bag back around 1/2" from the top of the box.  Cover/stone/brick will hold it there, and you will get good upper ventilation.

Now...a major improvement (IMHO) is to forgo 1 frame from each side and add a feeder in the middle.  The feeder also acts as a divider.  Make the feeder sides from tempered fiberboard.  The ends and the bottom are wood.  Add a divider from tempered fiberboard, so that internally there are actually two feeders.  Make the top from wood, leaving a blank near each end to add syrup.  Add "ears" to act as frame rests.  Glue all this up with a good waterproof glue.  I use Kelley's.   

From the outside, just down from the top, drill four 1/4" adjacent holes to allow bees access to the syrup.  Cut a piece of plastic queen excluder material and fasten over the holes with clear silicone.  (If you don't do this, the bees will gradually enlarge the feeder access holes.  Sooner or later a queen will enter, and you will drown her when you add syrup!)  Do all this on both sides, so each nuc can feed.

This is tough to write (but easy to build).  If you want one feeder to copy, or want to buy them cheaper than you can build them, get them from:
Dan H. Miller
5670 B County RD 10
Heuvelton NY 13654

A few years back I gave him one to use as an example and since he has since been making them for me, and anyone else who wants them.  He sells them for $5 each; ask for Double Nuc Feeder.  He makes the double nuc box as well as the feeder for $15 each.  Everything comes fully assembled.  He is Amish, so no phone calls.  He will ship, but not in large quantities.

Hope this helps,  

Lloyd
email to [log in to unmask]
http://www.rossrounds.com
Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, Inc.
Manufacturer of round comb honey equipment and Sundance pollen traps