Steve Newcomb wrote:
 
> Has anyone had any experience using a "lock mitre" type of joint for the
> corners of supers?  This joint can be cut in one pass with a router table.
>  It looks like it would be much faster than cutting finger joints
> (dovetails).  It should have about 2 1/2X the glue surface area than a rabbet
> joint, but not as much as a finger joint.
 
Steve -
 
I have made supers with both box (finger) joints and rabbets. My
experience is that there is a large degree of seperation between the two
holding up over time.  If one has a table saw, making the box joint is
very easy and quick once you make your jig. As far as using the "lock
mitre" which, if I understand the term is a miter with a tounge in back,
my concern would be the delicateness of the outer edge due to the miter
joint coming to a feathered edge.  Your dealing with wood boxes that are
going to take a beating so a joint that is strong with the wood being as
thick as possible seems like a good thing to keep in mind.
 
I've had others mention using a standard dovetail joint for supers but
again it seems to me that you will end up with some delicate edges on
each pin (tail) that in time will tend to split out or break off.  Maybe
not as I've never tried.  If all you have available is a router then I
would still rabbet the edges and glue and screw the heck out of it and
it will service you for many years.  Or dovetail it if you already have
the equipment to do so.
 
> Has anyone had any experience with a glue called Gorrilla Glue.  It is a new
> adhesive in the woodworking industry that uses water as a catalyst to cure.
>  It is supposed to be waterproof, etc.
 
No. $20 seems like alot to pay for glue. Again, depending on which joint
you end up using, some will require the use of glue to a greater degree
than others.
 
Good luck with the decision.
 
-Barry
 
--
Barry Birkey
West Chicago, Illinois  USA
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http://www.birkey.com