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Subject:
From:
Roy Nettlebeck <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 2 Mar 1997 18:40:43 -0800
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TEXT/PLAIN
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TEXT/PLAIN (33 lines)
On Sun, 2 Mar 1997, Dennis wrote:
 
> In response to Brian Tasseys' question about bear fences...
>
> One (possible) way to build them is with standard field fence, 6" x 6"
'woven' wire, that is mounted to a piece of PVC pipe (cheap black plastic
works) sliped over a steel fence post as an insulator.
>
> Remember that electric fences need good 'grounding' to work properly.
Dry ground may require a bit of help with a grounding grid on the  outside
of the electrified fence.  That can be another piece of field fence that is
layed flat and pinned to the ground with some simple U shaped pieces of wire.
>
> Keep the electrified wires clear of the ground and grass, weeds, etc., get
as good a charger as you can, and good luck.
 >
 Hi ,  I use normal aluminum electric fence wire. Three strands, the hot
ones are on the top and bottem. I use pig steel posts with insulators. The
key is the sardine cans that you wire to the top hot wire every 20 to 30
feet. Punch some holes in the cans. The sardines I use are packed in oil.I
have been doing this for 25 years and I have seen some outstanding tell
tail signs of what happens when the bear grabs the can in its mouth.I bet
they are good for two miles before they look over there shoulder. They
don't come back and you could plant a garden in the ground that they work
up as they try for traction.
 The wires are spaced 12 inches from the ground for the first one then 12
inches above that for the ground wire then 12 inches above that with the
hot wire for the sardine cans. They go for the sardines first and then
they are history.
Best Regards
 
Roy

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