>
>
> Hi Randy,
   I'm based in Boulder mentor backyard beekeepers up and down the Colorado
Front Range. Varroa is a huge problem and I suspect we're rapidly selecting
for the parasitoid version.  I have a top bar hive (for bitching rights if
for nothing else) and try to reach out to the TBH crowd whenever possible.
My TBH mite levels track pretty closely with my US standard hives.   TBHs
produce a ton of drones.  Does that matter?  Not sure, but the hives are
all close enough for drift to equalize mite populations anyway.
   I've successfully used MAQS or Apiguard on the on the bottom of the
hive.  I sometimes have to trim the bottom edge of 2-4 comb to get the
treatments to fit. If using Apiguard in the single serve trays, I dump it
upside down onto the foil cover, more like the bulk form.  Those trays are
just too thick.  I've used Hopguard II in a TBH.  It's as effective as it
is in a US standard hive.  That is to say, not very, but it will keep the
mites down to a dull roar until the weather cools off somewhat.  I've used
OA vapor in January, but there has to be a slot type entrance for the
cooker.  Some TBHs only have bung holes.
   One problem with treating a TBH is that there are no honey supers to
pull off.  I tell people to mark ALL the bars in the hive when Apiguard or
OA is applied as not-for-humans.  I put Hopguard only in the brood area.  I
put Apiguard far from the entrance so the bees have to carry it through the
hive.
   There's no standard size or entrance configuration.   For dosage of the
organic acids and thymol I estimate volume (they're all different), and
sort of take into account the shape and how much air flow there is.   Some
are pretty congested with cross comb and attachment to the walls.  I
haven't used an OA dribble, but it could be done IF the combs are free
enough to be moveable a half inch apart.
   For monitoring, it's a little tricky getting a sample off those combs,
especially the new ones. Maybe brushing bees into a tub and then scooping
up a half cup would be safest.  And of course the sugar shake is what most
prefer, at least to start.  Three to four years of dead bees will sometimes
change minds, though.
    I have alcohol wash data before and after on my hive.  On other
people's hives I have pretreatment data, but only whether the hive survived
or not for post treatment.  Generally they do survive if they're treated
adequately.  My steady TBH customers are splitting hives, cancelling
package orders, and saying they don't want more hives.  So, it can be done.
    I have a talk with people about 'natural' treatments.  Plants and
insects are mostly enemies and those secondary compounds we like in our tea
are mostly made by plants to repel or kill insects.  So hold off on those
plant products unless they're necessary, effective and safe for the bees
and you.  Add that lemongrass and wintergreen to your own tea.  It's lovely.
    I also try to point people at evidence based resources no matter what
type of hive they have - University, USDA, extension, your site - and away
from blogs, opinions, Facebook unless backed by the former.  Most people
really don't know where to find good information.  The major TBH gurus
claim that mites are not a problem in TBHs.  A recent article in our city
newspaper was still considering that contrails cause CCD, and many local
beekeeping associations are the blind leading the blind (apologies to the
actual blind).
   I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Kristina
Boulder, CO

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