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From:
"MORGAN, ANTHONY" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Discussion of Bee Biology <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:43:25 GMT+0100
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Hei!
 
Gordon Scott wrote:
 
> we sell a beeswax
> polish, which is a fairly popular line. However, some people ask for
> a 'cream' rather than a polish. All the recipes I see for these creams
> use soft-soap as an ingredient........
 
I produce beeswax polish from beeswax and pure natural turpentine
(lovely smell!), by varying the proportions one can obtain anything
from a hard shoe polish consistency to a creamy butter-like
consistency. Why use soft soap? If one must, beeswax soap might be the
answer?(instructions for making can be found on the net)
 
As additional info I submit the following from Rick Buchanan
 <[log in to unmask]>, dated 15th. June 1995
 
>Take it from someone who has a long history of cabinetry etc.
>Don't use bee's or any type of wax on your furniture.
>It will soften the finish over the years.  sometimes older
>furniture will have a sticky feel. No amount of polish will remove
>this.  It is the finish s-l-o-w-l-y dessolving.  Despite the comercials,
>oil is best. Go to a kitchen store  find PURE lemon oil. Use an old t-shirt
>that is damp (make that humid) and apply 3-4 drops of lemon oil to the cloth.
>Apply. Wipe with a dry t-shirt.
>This works for varnishes and french polish (shellac).  For lacquer, add
>1/8 tsp of pure softened carnuaba wax (pure)  to 1/8 cup pure lemon oil.
>Apply a few drops to a humid t-shirt and polish.  Wipe w/ dry t-shirt.
>The carnuaba wax will keep the lacquer from crazing. For plastic (polyester,
>vinylester, epoxy, polyurethane, etc.) use lemon oil and water only (same
>as for varnish).
>Here is why....
>Silicone, if used, will imbed itself in the finish.  Refinishing the piece will be
>near impossible. Wax, especially soft wax like beeswax, will attract
>dirt.  This dirt becomes imbedded in the finish and turns it dark.
>The only reason to use wax (and it must be a hard wax) is to prevent
>crazing. A minute amount is needed  and needs to be fully buffed out.
>Oil will remove grease and oil.  Lemon oil is a light oil so it will flow out
> well and remove soot and fingerprints. Do not use too much wax or oil.
>One wants to remove dirt and grease, keep the finish plyable so it won't craze, and
>to leave nothing on the finish when finished.
>If you can't find lemon oil, you can substitute banana oil.
 
Where does one get banana oil from??!
 
>This actually works better (than lemon oil) because it flows
>out even better than lemon oil does and thus less is needed.
>However it is very expensive.  If the type of finish you have requires a wax,
>remember... a little carnauba goes along, long way/  1/4 tsp will wax a
>large car.
>Beeswax instills confidence that you are doing the best thing
>for your furniture, and unbelieveable as  it may sound, some cabinet and
>furniture builders even recommend it!  Forget tradition.  Use what won't
>do harm to your finish.  Stay away from commercial polishes, silicone, and
>beeswax.
 
I can't comment on this but it seems I've been doing it all wrong for
the last 30 years!!
 
Cheers Tony.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Anthony N. Morgan (Tony)                 Fax: +47 73 89 62 86
"Stavshagen"                          E-mail: [log in to unmask]
Midtsandan                               Sor-Trondelag College
7563 MALVIK                              Elec. Eng. Department
Norway                                   7005 TRONDHEIM, Norway
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