In a message dated 96-04-30 06:31:13 EDT, Allen Dick writes:
 
>A big problem is that a new hand will see an experienced beekeeper go
>around a yard doing things and assume they can be done that way all
>the time -- without realising that the beekeeper is looking all the time
>to see what the bees are doing as a result of his actions, and
>adjusting his activities to get desired results or avoid problems.
>
>
 
     Every situation needs to be thought through, and we have to make the
best of the circumstances we face.
 
     When you are 150 miles from home, with 30 or 40 hives to move, and
waiting until dark means a night in the cab or a motel, you might go ahead
and load when you are going to lose some field bees.   And there are
circumstances when losing them may actually help the bees.
 
    When I move bees back into home yards in the fall, I am very fussy to
save every possible bee, as queens are shutting down; no replacements are
being made for losses. Each bee adds to the cluster which is necessary to get
through cold spells.
 
   In the spring, when bees are brooded up, and tending to swarminess, lost
bees will be replaced quickly, and the loss may prevent a swarm.  Often you
can move a yard of bees with nucs to catch the field force.  One beekeeper I
know places all his hives in rings of eight with four nucs in the center,
also facing outward.  When he moves the parent hives about May 1, the nucs
are strengthened, and they are ready two or three weeks later.
 
   Many loads of bees are now heading north from the southeast.  This is
"fingernail-chewing time" for the beekeeper, who may have a major portion of
his livelihood concentrated on the load (s).
 
   Beekeepers always hope for cool, rainy weather for trucking.  Some used to
use reefers, but unit failures have pretty well discouraged that.  Six
hundred hives on a tractor trailer in 90 degree weather is a beekeeper's bad
dream.  But truckers have schedules, and sometimes it can't be avoided.
 
   In hot weather bees may not survive an eight to twelve hundred mile trip,
especially if they are congested, and full of new nectar.  In this case, the
beekeeper will want to plan his move with the bees having a maximum of 4 - 4
1/2 frames of brood, and lose the field force first.
 
   There are several migratory beekeepers here.  When they load, they don't
always have "catch hives" and I hate to see the resource wasted.  The field
bees are somewhat like a swarm, with their bellies all full.  A couple years
ago, I got twenty boxes of foundation drawn in a couple days, plus about 17
nice hives.
 
   As we loaded, I watched to see where bees were clustering.  We had the
bees strung along a lane, with brush alongside, moving the tractor trailer
ahead as we loaded.  Under each limb which was catching a bunch, I placed a
box with a frame of brood, a queen cell, and 9 frames of foundation.  They
popped that foundation out, almost overnight.
 
    Forgive my rambling.  Like Allen says,  when moving bees it's necessary
to think through the situation, the condition of the bees, the time of year,
and all the other factors.  The best choice of techniques comes with
knowledge and experience.  And sometimes the best choice for the bees, may
not be the possible choice, given the beekeeper's situation.  So we do the
best we can.
 
    Some comments for newbies, who are often scared to death when moving
bees.
Don't try to move bees with supers on;  a day or so before they are moved,
remove supers.  Make sure bottom boards are stapled.
 
   DON'T  tape or seal them up, especially in hot weather; a lot of bees are
suffociated this way.  When the bees find they cannot get out, they get
excited, which created more heat, which makes them more excited, and they can
do a total meltdown quicker than you'd believe.
 
   Best bet (the ideal move, which, of course, is not always possible):  Load
about an hour before dark WITHOUT closing the hives. Give each some smoke and
glide them onto the truck without any thumping.  Single story hives can be
handled by one person.  The hive "should" have handholds on the ends.
 Doubles require two people unless you are Paul Bunyon.  They should be
either stapled or well glued by bees ahead of time; you don't want them
coming apart as you load.  Plan to be DONE before dark, as crawley bees are
no fun at all!
 
   If it is hot, and bees are hanging out, hose them down, or put some
crushed ice on them.  Driving also cools and calms the bees.
 
   Drive to the new site before sunrise, and unload in the light.  TRY not to
shake the bees on ruts and holes.  They usually are very gentle, if not
shaken.
 
   I've moved hives many a time, with 20 - 40 hives on the truck in my
driveway overnight. Of course you don't want to oversleep.
 
  May your flowers be full of nectar.
 
 
[log in to unmask]    Dave Green,  PO Box 1200,  Hemingway,  SC  29554
 
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