The important thing in making an observation (or any) hive is to respect "bee space."  If the
frames are not 1/4 inch from each other, the glasses, the sides, top, and bottom, the little
buggers will build bridge/burr comb to the glass, etc.  (I work one that had been modified
from the original, and somewhat messed up, space wise.  When I routed the side hanger
slots to space the frames the right distance apart, it worked much better.)
 
They also need plenty of ventilation.  My 3-framer has three one inch screened holes at the
top, plus a full width screened section at the bottom.  Mine does not swivel, and just has a 1
1/2 inch plastic tube going from a wood block through the wall for access.  (I slip a piece of
duct tape over the tube and the hole in the block when I take it outside to work it.  Make the
glass thick enough not to break with handling, and have spare pieces available.  (Experience
talking here...)
 
Plan on working it more often than regular hives, as the confined space will fill quickly in the
spring.  Keep empty frames of foundation available and swap out full frames of brood for
expansion space to prevent swarming.  Have a field hive close to swap frames into, but don't
overload the field hive with brood either, or it will swarm.
 
The 3-framer is pretty heavy to carry very far, and a four framer would be worse, but would
give more space to grow in.  (Wheels anyone?)  I have taken it on the road to classrooms, etc.,
and it gets heavier with distance upstairs...
 
Watching it is pure joy, though, almost as much as sitting on the "bee rock" beside the field
hive entrance.
 
BBirkey's (bbirkey%interaccess.com) Homepages have regular hive dimensions, and He could
probably be talked into posting observation hive plans.  Check out the Beekeeper Homepage
at http://weber.u.washington.edu/%7Ejlks/bee.html for some info on Beekeeper FAQs, of
which there is one on observation hives (HINT.131)
 
Good luck!
Gerry Visel
[log in to unmask]
(815) 226-6620
(815) 394-5438 or -2827 (fax)