Now that's a great idea!...use a flat screen computer monitor as a back light. Open up a program like Excel, remove the gridlines, toolbars, row & column headings, etc for a white background, or whatever color is desired for that matter. You would also have control over brightness and have a consistent tint unlike the LightTracer (like you mentioned which I mitigated with varying success in Photoshop). The angle, distance, and brightness of the monitor can also all be adjusted...I'm going to have to try that. Another possibility would be to use the LightTracer underneath the bottle/glass as a base along with the monitor...Thanks for the tip! Tim
________________________________
From: William Lockhart <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Wednesday, May 8, 2013 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: Glass Base maker's mark help
The only trouble with LightTracer II (which I also use) is that (at least on mine) the tinting changes from bottom to top. I frequently prop mine on its side for more consistent hues.
In some cases, the older, brighter light boxes are better, although mine was destroyed in an accident.
Tim is also correct that you should try taking photos at different distances and angles. I frequently take 20 or more photos before I get one of publication quality.
One size NEVER fits all with glass photography.
I still find new methods all the time. I needed a photo of a particularly difficult seam on a Vaseline jar, and the one that finally worked was the light from my computer monitor, reflecting across the curved glass surface, along with the fluorescent ceiling light in my office. Don't ask why I tried that, but it worked.
I also use a fine-grained grey cloth as a background or base.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGY [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Tim Bennett
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 10:33 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: Glass Base maker's mark help
For what it's worth the light box that I sometimes use for bottles & glass is the type marketed to scrapbookers for the purpose of tracing designs, etc (such as the LightTracer II Light Box). This allows muted light to enhance any embossing, designs, etc on the glass while giving a fairly consistent background that eliminates shadow and glare. Depending on the artifact I will either lay it directly on the light box or stand it up as a lit backdrop adjusting the distance as needed. The trick is to not allow the background light to overpower the subject artifact especially for darker colors of glass. I use an entirely different setup for photographing non-glass materials. With that said, I completely agree with Bill - some of the best shots of bottles/glass have been taken outdoors in natural light and you'll just have to try out different lighting/angle scenarios to see what works best with the camera used. Tim
________________________________
From: William Lockhart <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Wednesday, May 8, 2013 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: Glass Base maker's mark help
Not only is this a good idea for clarity, try photographing outside the box. The typical archaeological photography setup is nice with the scale, but it frequently does not work well with bottles -- especially on heels or other double-curved surfaces and on colorless glass.
Alternatives include holding the fragment up to a light on the ceiling, taking it outside against a blue sky, or holding the fragment and turning it so that the light reflects from it at different angles. Outside or inside, different backgrounds bring out different glass markings, depending on color, deterioration of the glass, and angles. [I almost made an interesting typo -- angels; of course, those may help too).
The point is to try several different approaches to bring out embossing on glass.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGY [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Tim Bennett
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 7:27 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: Glass Base maker's mark help
Just a suggestion - try photographing the glass over a light box - this will make all of the embossed letters, symbols, etc come out. If you don't have a light box, you might want to just try holding them up to a window and taking a photo- I've found that this really helps to see the details in the glass. Tim
________________________________
From: William Lockhart <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: Glass Base maker's mark help
Unfortunately, even after I downloaded the photos on my computer, magnified the images, and turned them, I still cannot make out enough detail to be of help.
If the colorless glass were cleaned up and if the individual who is looking at the real artifact can tell me what the letters, numbers, and/or symbols are, I might be able to help.
Bill Lockhart
-----Original Message-----
From: HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGY [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of Cody Davis
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:35 PM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Glass Base maker's mark help
Hello All,
A colleague of mine is needing help identifying the two bases at the below link. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/cody_d/library/Glass%20Bases
Cody S. Davis, RPA
*This electronic message transmission and any documents, files, graphics, or previous e-mail messages attached to it may contain information that may be legally confidential and/or privileged. The information is intended solely for the individual(s) or entity(s) named above and access by disclosure, copying, distribution, or other use of the contents of this message is prohibited and may be unlawful. If you have received this electronic transmission in error, please reply immediately to the sender pointing out the error, and delete the message. This message may also contain personal opinions of the author.*
|
