----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Aaron Morris" <[log in to unmask]>
> Subject: Re: [BEE-L] Sterilization Questions
>

> paraffin vs.Beeswax for the wax component.
> 
> Cost analysis please!  The reason I asked Randy 
> for a source is the paraffin can get damned 
> expensive!  Beeswax!?!??!  ...
> ...Aaron Morris - thinking profit (shame on me!)!

Not really, it's a good point. :-)

To begin with this method of wood preservation
can't even remotely be compared with other 
preservatives. Consider contamination from the 
pressure treated (PT) wood, and the effects on 
the bees it doesn't even come close! Now why 
would I mention pressure treated? Maybe 
because if you just ignore all the chemical issues 
for a second, pressure treated comes closest to 
the toughness of the wax/rosin dip. I've been 
personally told to expect 20 years minimum. If 
you do it at the proper temperature it WILL 
completely absorb. Of course if you DO 
consider the effects of contamination... testing 
found trace PT chemical contamination in north 
American wax, and I believe honey. The new 
pressure treatment too. So where are we? Well... 
cost for one thing. I don't know about you but I 
would rather dip once, and keep the woodware 
in like new condition, without deterioration I've 
seen with paint stain, oils etc. (no, I don't 
seriously consider PT wood as an alternative) 
Another point is the sterilization... your not 
going to get that with the other treatments. I 
don't treat inside, just bare wood in there (and 
eventually propolis) The dip covers 
EVERYTHING. It covers and sterilizes every 
inch. 15, 20 years from now just take it and dip 
it again for another 15/20 years. Got AFB? 
Get dip. Dip kills AFB. Why burn when you 
can dip?

Ok now about the wax... the first thing 
everyone says is "what will the paraffin do to 
the bees?", ok, good question, so why take a 
chance? Use bees wax and I doubt there will
be any issue with that. Cost? Remember done 
properly, very little wax/rosin mix is used. Do 
it too cold and all you need to do is put it 
back in at the right temperature. Beeswax can
take higher temperatures too.

By all accounts it is a relatively inexpensive 
treatment, taking all the previous into account. 
It's long lived, sterile, easy on the wood, 
eliminates maintenance for the finish, and it
can easily be reapplied.

Like I said, the treatment of choice. Now if 
only there were a "Club" dip tank..... 
(Hmmm...)  not a bad idea. While you are at 
it. I have a branding iron. All you need is 
a brand with your name/mark on it.

Dip em.
Brand em.

Sounds like we're out working on the range.

By the way, want to see it?
Look here (thanks Michael):
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdipping.htm


Tim

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